“I don’t see the need to try it"
I was struck in reading Richard Olnay’s autobiography "Reflections" many years ago that on it being suggested to him that he might want to start acquiring Jaboulet’s Hermitage La Chapelle, Richard's reaction was that he did not feel it necessary to try another Hermitage because he was quite happy with Chave’s and saw no reason to drink anyone else’s.
While it is pretty clear that Richard believed there is actually no better Hermitage than Chave’s, which makes his a low risk comment to make, there is surely also a wider reference to being completely content with one choices even if, conceivably, there actually exists out there a superior wine. One has a long history of drinking the wine, knowing the grower, his vineyards and also his dog. One knows what the grower is seeking to achieve. There exists a real relationship with the wine that strongly enhances the pleasure of consuming it. So one hardly is going to jump at every suggestion made to try someone else’s version in substitution.
For myself this singular attachment to particular growers is also driven by the tedious practical consideration of budget. I buy the same wines every year and so, to spend on something new each year that is beyond everyday drinking level in any quantity at all, requires I reduce my purchases of the current favorites. Over the years as the cost of some previously routine purchases - like Christophe Roumier and Mugneret Gibourg - have gotten away from me, I have had to abandon some names and replaced these with new names from lesser Burgundy appellations. But broadly I still only have one or two preferred growers from each of the major Burgundian villages. So I have a representative grower from Gevrey and Vosne and Chambolle and Volnay already. Why would I abandon these ?
There has to be a balance struck between new discoveries and old favorites. I have lately added Domaine Henri Germain to the 'buy each vintage" list, for example. But as I have got older my buying patterns within my favorite regions have been increasingly focussed on the same growers. I have a lot of ‘sympa” for Richard's approach. To change feels like a betrayal. I suppose if one buys a great deal of wine one has more flexibility. But if budget constrains purchases to a handful of bottles from each grower per vintage, it takes something quite exceptional to have me be willing to cut down on these to make room for someone new.
And in Hermitage I still only buy Chave. I have in fact tasted very few others. What could possibly cause me to break a 25 year run ?
But I will happily drink anything anyone puts in front of me. Just don’t ask me to start collecting it !