Brunate
Brunate I always think as being a vineyard with a big identity. A fairly contiguous slope, visible from afar, it seems to anchor this part of the Barolo landscape. Brunate is the middle of a trio of largely south facing slopes, with Rocche Annunziata to the north and Cerrequio to the south. Brunate is the most prominent of these slopes and is angled in such a way as to draw the eyes up to La Morra. There is also a lovely walk up the narrow road that ascends along the top of the ridge from Boggione’s vines at the very eastern low point (pictured) up towards La Serra, with the Brunate vineyard stretching out on your left. The colorful chapel belonging to Ceretto sits half way up. That walk is totally worth the effort.
What you get in Brunate is not just an imposing vineyard of great historical importance but one that is shared by many of most prestigious growers in the whole region. So many growers owning parcels in the same vineyard gives a vineyard a certain prominence - and is quite rare in Barolo. Villero is the other good example. You get to witness how differing winemaking styles impact on a singular vineyard, resulting in varying interpretations in the bottle. Although there is an undoubted underlying common theme to the wines of Brunate, there are also manifest differences in the wines sourced from its grapes. You will always find expressive aromatics, darker fruit with some depth on the palate, some considerable power, a good acidity and tannins that are silky but decidedly present. The wine marries some austerity with lovely aromatics. These characteristics are pretty constant. And yet there are many growers to chose from in identifying a personal preference with enough difference between them to merit undertaking the pleasant journey of discovery in making that selection.
The differences in altitude along its length is the key to understanding Brunate. It is helpful to break this elevation into three sections. The middle section - between about 250 and 400 meters - where Marcarini and Cerretto share 9 hectares of vines, has the longest history and no doubt the earliest fame. Here we find classic Brunate marrying the very present soft round fruits of La Morra with a particular austerity and power. Roses on the aromatically expressive nose. Some small black fruits and brown spice on the palate perhaps. The Ceretto wine never lacking in concentration of fruit or fullness on the palate.
The lower section - further to the east - is among others, home to the vines of both Rinaldi’s. It can get warm down here. Parts face true south. The soil too may be a little different. One foot in Barolo township. Traditional winemaking prevails in this section - longer fermentations giving fruit and floral flavors more complicated by tertiary notes of balsamic and tobacco and much held in reserve.
The uppermost section is home to those making wine in the more modern style - with the exceptional of Podere Oddero. So the winemakers signature is quite evident - as exemplified by Mauro Marengo (from whom Altare’s wine is also sourced), Voerzio and Vietti. It is slightly cooler up here - especially at night - and windier. The wines as a result perhaps a touch more elegant.
